Lifeboat Farm

Our sourdough starter
December 18, 2011, 1:39 pm
Filed under: Food, Recipes

I’ve tried a few sourdough bread starters over the years but this one has been the easiest to start and produces a great sourdough bread. The only reason I’m starting it again is that I managed to kill my last one. As it turns out, sourdough starters that contain dairy don’t like to be left out of the fridge long term.

This recipe is from one of our favourite bread books – Beth Hensperger’s The Bread Bible. It’s definitely in the “if you only buy one…” category.

Sourdough Starter

2 cups of lukewarm water
1 teaspoon of active dry yeast or fresh yeast
1 tablespoon of sugar or honey
1/4 cup of nonfat dry milk powder
1/3 cup of plain yoghurt
2 cups of bread flour

Feed for the starter

1/4 cup of water
1/3 cup of bread flour

You’ll need a medium sized glass bowl with a loose-fitting glass lid (or gladwrap is fine). Pour the warm water into the bowl and sprinkle the yeast, sugar and milk powder over the surface. Stir with a whisk until dissolved then stir in the flour and mix until well blended.

Loosely cover with a glass lid, gladwrap or a double layer of cheesecloth and let stand at room temperature for at least 48 hours, whisking the mixture twice a day. You can leave it for up to four days, depending on how sour you want the starter to be. The mixture will start to ferment and bubble with a clear liquid forming on top – just stir that back in.

On day two to four (depending on when you want to stop) it’s time to feed the starter. Mix in 1/4 cup of water and 1/3 cup of bread flour, cover again and let it stand overnight. Store it in the fridge, loosely covered and feed it again every two weeks.

Using the starter

Bring it to room temperature before using.  Remove the amount of starter you need then add one cup of flour and 1/2 cup of non-fat milk to the remaining starter. Mix well and let stand at room temperature for a day to start fermenting again, then refrigerate. I’ve found that if you are using and replacing the starter regularly (once a week or more) you don’t need to feed it as well, unless you want to grow the starter to the point you can split it in half and give some away to another keen baker.

The starter will improve with age (my last one was nearly a year old when I killed it). It should smell of pleasant fermentation – yeast and alcohol. If it starts to smell foul or develops a pink colour it has probably succumbed to an airborne pathogen – discard it immediately and start again.

It helps to leave yourself a note for the first few days’ activities so you don’t have to keep diving back to the recipe.


A bucket of mushrooms
December 17, 2011, 12:46 pm
Filed under: Food, Garden

We recently bought a bucket of mushroom starter from local outfit, Parkvale mushrooms. It’s currently living in our firewood box outside the back door in the relative cool and dark. We’ve harvested over a kilo of mushrooms from it so far, and more keep coming up. At the current price of mushrooms it’s already paid for itself! Aside from the economy, the taste of just-picked mushrooms in our salads and on pizzas can’t be beaten. They’re easy to look after, don’t take up much space, and start producing immediately – ideal for the kitchen gardener.

Busy bees
December 13, 2011, 5:04 pm
Filed under: Garden, Pasture

I was just up at the hay paddock and was struck by the loud buzzing coming from all around me. We’ve had a bumper season for clover this year and now it’s all coming into flower, the bees are making the most of it. Having bees definitely helps the clover grow. White clover propagates by seed or creeping stolons, so even if the flowers don’t get pollinated, it can still spread (although slowly). When you pollinate flowers and they drop viable seed, you get so much more growing, assuming the weather is clover-friendly.

More clover means more clover flowers, which makes the bees very happy – they help each other.

Back at the hives, on a hot, humid and very still day, the bees are going nuts. Here’s the traffic jam outside the larger of the two hives.

3D Printing Fly Traps
December 12, 2011, 3:18 pm
Filed under: 3D Printing, Garden, Technology

This is the third in what has turned into a three-part series on organic pest control (it’s just that time of year). The previous two posts were on organic wood lice control and white butterfly decoys.

Like most rural dwellers, we accept flies as part of life. Some years are worse than others but wet summers (like this one so far) seem to be very favourable to fly breeding.

We’ve had a few big fly traps over the years like the plastic lids you put on buckets and fill with bait. They work well, but can be a bit big and smelly to use too close to the house. I wanted to design a trap that was smaller, could be deployed nearer the house in larger numbers, and that used recycled materials if possible. It needed to be 3D printable and fit within the constraints of the build platform – 10x10x10cm.

After some messing about with various ideas, The bean can fly trap was born. In a nutshell, flies smell whatever bait and water you put in the can (a small piece of liver, or any offal works well), go in for a closer look, then find themselves trapped. They drown in the can and they in turn, become bait for more flies. The principle of fly behaviour the traps exploit is their drive to fly upwards to fresh air and light; they’ll just keep bumping up against the lid of the trap until they are exhausted and fall in the water.

The two parts of the trap are the lid that allows the flies to enter but not get out again, and a base that can be attached to the top of a fence post. Both parts friction-fit to the can. Most tin cans like this are the same dimensions the world over so it should work with almost any can.

Here are a few prototype traps in testing on top of one of our big traps. I played with various shapes and sizes of entry tunnels, and different vent slot sizes. Getting the flies into a trap was fairly easy if the bait was smelly enough. The harder part was keeping them in there. While we use wet bait to catch and kill the flies, I’ve heard from another user that they use dry bait to catch live flies to give to their pet frog. Either way, I’m happy with less flies in the world.

The plan now is to deploy these traps on fence posts all around the house to reduce the fly population through the Summer.


White butterfly decoys
December 8, 2011, 2:34 pm
Filed under: 3D Printing, Garden, Technology

The previous post about organic woodlice control touched on a couple of elements of pest control: trapping and physical separation of pest and plant. Another strategy that can work quite well is using environmental elements to confuse or deter pests. You can apply the principle to planting technique, by mixing up your plants to confuse pests (they don’t have to be too smart to find an acre of one crop). In this case I wanted to deter white butterflies from laying their eggs on our brassicas.

It turns out, white butterflies are quite territorial (or at least smart enough to know when to cut their losses). If a white butterfly sees other butterflies hovering around a target plant, they will move on to somewhere else to lay their eggs. You can use this behaviour to make decoy butterflies repellent to the real ones. People have used egg shells, white pebbles and even bread tags as decoys with mixed success.

My friend Vik had already created a model of a white butterfly and put it up on Thingiverse. All I had to do was download it and print one out.

While it was still hot from the printer I bent the wings up at a more realistic angle. A spare bit of filament melted and stuck to the bottom made a handy stalk to poke into the garden bed.

I printed a bunch (flock?) of butterflies and gave them some anatomical detail with a vivid marker before deploying them to the garden.

The stalks are quite flexible so the butterflies bob about in the wind. They look pretty realistic to me, but more importantly I’ve seen white butterflies hovering around, then leaving without touching down, all this week. Time will tell if any have the courage to sneak in to lay eggs.

If you don’t have a 3D printer, you could probably cut the same shape out of white plastic containers for much the same effect.

Organic woodlice control
December 7, 2011, 3:39 pm
Filed under: Food, Garden

For the most part, our small greenhouse has done a great job of keeping bugs off the veges (at least, the flying ones). Of all the plants you’d think bugs wouldn’t eat, chili peppers must be top of the list. Given we’ve just planted some Bhut Jolokia chili peppers, otherwise known as Ghost Chilis (the world’s hottest), we thought they would be pretty safe from predation.

The woodlice (or slaters as we call them in NZ) living in the greenhouse had other ideas. They had nibbled the leaves of the seedlings on the first night after we planted them. Organic growing is often just as easy as conventional with planning and time to prepare for setbacks, but in this case we didn’t have much time before the chili seedlings would be too far gone to save. To the internet for inspiration!

Plan A: Physical barrier

You can physically stop the woodlice getting to your plants by using almost anything as a collar around them. A few plastic bottles and jars cut up worked nicely. I removed the top layer of mulch and compost from around the plants first to remove most or all of the woodlice first (no point in trapping them in there with their dinner).

This has worked pretty well; after a few days, no new woodlice have gotten to the plants, and by the time they outgrow the collars (they can be cut off later), the leaves and stems should be tough enough that the woodlice no longer try to eat them. But we still wanted to reduce the numbers of woodlice in the greenhouse, to protect other plants. So on to;

Plan B: Traps

The most effective of the traps we tried was the half-citrus trap. It’s really simple, just put a half orange (or grapefruit in this case) face down on the soil. You can juice it first if you don’t want to waste it.

The next day, turn it over and scoop up all the little buggers. I call the chickens over (yes they know to come for food) and throw the handful of woodlice on the ground for them. I’d been getting a couple of hundred woodlice a day from two citrus traps this week, but the numbers are starting to drop off now – a good sign.

The other trap we tried was a plant pot filled with damp newspaper. The woodlice will nest in it overnight, but this didn’t work quite as well as the citrus trap, possibly because the grapefruit skin was too hard to resist. If you’re squeamish about touching the woodlice, this trap is good as you can just take out the paper in the morning and throw it away.

Plan C: Diatomaceous Earth

We didn’t go this far, but I’d read that diatomaceous earth is a good mechanical insecticide. From the WikiPedia article:

Diatomaceous earth consists of fossilized remains of diatoms, a type of hard-shelled algae. Diatomite is used as an insecticide, due to its physico-sorptive properties. The fine powder absorbs lipids from the waxy outer layer of insects’ exoskeletons, causing them to dehydrate. Arthropods die as a result of the water pressure deficiency, based on Fick’s law of diffusion. This also works against gastropods and is commonly employed in gardening to defeat slugs.

Presumably you could spread it around your plants to be picked up by the woodlice.

No doubt there are lots of other treatments, schemes and devices to thwart woodlice, but we seem to have a handle on the problem now with a few simple interventions.



3D Printed coffee grinder part
December 6, 2011, 5:09 pm
Filed under: 3D Printing, Environment, Technology

My friend Eddie has a small coffee grinder that has given him many years of faithful service but a broken part has rendered it less useful than it could be. I’m not sure what the official term is, but I’ll call it the sweeper. It’s the part that sweeps the ground coffee out to the exit chute as it is ground. I thought I’d try to 3D print a replacement part.

3D Printing precision parts can be tricky as there are limitations when you are depositing layers of molten plastic on top of one another to make a part. Luckily, the most precise bit of this part is the brass hex bush, which I could re-use. I used the basic measurements of the broken sweeper to create a quick model in Google SketchUp. You can use any of the more complex (and expensive) design packages, but for 99% of the work I do, SketchUp works just fine (and it’s free).

Here’s the printed part, fresh off the Makerbot 3D Printer. It needs a few stray bits of filament trimmed, but otherwise ready to go.

Tidied up, with a quick sand and trim (you wouldn’t want any bits falling off into the coffee). The brass bush will just friction fit into the new sweeper.

And here’s the new sweeper installed and tested with some coffee grounds. The tolerance is pretty tight so as not to leave any coffee behind. I used ABS plastic for this print as it’s the most food-safe feedstock I have. It melts at 220 degrees Celsius so even if any bits do get into the coffee grounds, the extraction water wouldn’t be hot enough to melt it into the finished coffee.

And that’s it. One less appliance heading to the landfill for want of a single broken part. Best of all, now the part exists digitally, anyone who needs a spare can print their own. I’ll upload the part to Thingiverse on the off-chance someone else in the world needs one.